I7
We head out towards the Temple where D saw a shop selling a book listing local walks. On the way we pass a shop selling rucksacks. D's trusty day pack is starting to fray in places and needs replacing. D has been looking for something suitable on and off for months but has not seen anything that meets his exact specification or budget. It has to have a draw cord for the main compartment, only one hidden external zip pocket and be suitable for fitting the neat little gadget that stops his camera being dropped every few minutes. There is one that looks like a possible and the assistant knocks it off its lofty perch with a pole. It is rather grubby but should wash alright and pointing this out gets a couple of quid off the price. The deal is struck and we also get the book which has a local map inside the back cover.
The forecast today is for sun with showers but the weather seems set fair this morning so we sort out our walking shoes, load up the new pack and head out for the Bhagsu Waterfall, not too far away and described in the book as 'small but beautiful'. The walk takes us through Bhagsu village and then up a path with several flights of steps. Every hundred metres or so there is some kind of refreshment shack. Today is Sunday so it is busy. Half of the population of the Punjab appear to be out for a country walk. They commune with nature by shouting at each other, taking selfies and throwing lots of litter about. There is a local eco group called Wild Warriors who are trying to get the message across about litter and the harm that it does to the environment but they seem to be facing an uphill struggle. For once nobody wants to take our picture but we are stopped a few times by people who want us to snap them on their phones. These must be the ones who haven't yet worked out how to use a selfie stick.
Down in the valley it is dhobi day for the monks. The falls themselves would benefit from a bit more of the wet stuff but it is in short supply up here this year. As for nature, we struggle to appreciate the benefits of having several snack stalls crammed into the space at the foot of the falls. There are more steps leading up to a substantial building at the top of the waterfall and we head there thinking of tea. These thoughts go out of the window when we hear the ghastly techno-death-thrash they are pumping out at high volume. The map has been pretty good so far and shows a track across to the top of Bhagsu village. This lacks snacks and is quiet apart from one family who pass us then stop, pass us again, stop again etc. The track pretty much contours across the face of the mountain, following a water pipeline. There are a few people coming the other way and it seems well used. We pass the family once more and the daughter tells us in perfect English "Don't go that way. The path is endless." We thank her for the unsolicited advice and around the next corner arrive at the top end of Bhagsu. We pause for honey, lemon, ginger tea halfway down the main street and then take an auto back to the hotel so that R can collect her binoculars.
The new pack has passed its first test and as the weather has continued to be sunny with t-shirt temperatures we decide to be more ambitious. Dal lake is described as 'picturesque' in the book and elsewhere we have seen it listed as a good place for bird watching. The map shows two routes, one along the main road and one by a secondary road that is slightly longer. We choose the latter on the basis that there will be less traffic and get that right. As the map does not show contours the continued steep ascent takes us by surprise but we make it to a landmark on the outskirts of Dharamkot village without problems. Here the map and reality part company big style. We ask directions and are told to follow a track. Instead of descending as expected, this continues to climb but at a more gentle rate and it is a pleasant walk among conifers and flowering rhododendron trees. It soon becomes clear that this track is not shown on the map but there are people walking in the opposite direction plus the odd motorbike, an auto and even a small taxi so we remain hopeful of getting somewhere.
There is a fork where one option starts climbing steeply and the other stays fairly level. D is certain that we need to descend so we stay level. We pass a dell full of picnickers and a couple of monks coming the other way before the path starts to lose height. We stop for a banana and D consults Maps on his phone. This suggests we are in a trackless wilderness miles from the Dal Lake but the weather is still good, we have a few hours before darkness and we can always go back the way that we came. Eventually we find ourselves on the outside of a compound that contains some kind of water treatment plant under construction. A track leads past some barrack like buildings that have signs about being a workers hostel. The track gets wider and we have a choice. We go left and find ourselves overlooking a grassless football pitch in some kind of arena. The game in progress is not distinguished by high levels of skill. The other road leads us down to a murky looking boating pond with a lot of plastic rubbish floating in it. We see a signboard. This is the picturesque and sacred Dal Lake. The map has been bloody useless but we do see a Spotted Forktail which refuses to pose for a good photo.
There is a row of parked autos and a ride back to base is only 90 rupees. We collect our laundry and hit the Green Cafe for tea and cake. The clouds have rolled in and there is a short sharp shower before it gets really dark and an almighty thunderstorm with lightning, hailstones and torrential rain sets in for nearly an hour. This is the McCloudganj that we remember from last year. By 7 pm it is a bit damp rather than wet and we nip out for supper. We have our fingers crossed for the weather tomorrow. If it is good we want to be a bit more adventurous with our walk.
No comments:
Post a Comment